Whenever we tell people that we do an extended stay in Mazatlan each winter we're often greeted with shock and the question , "aren't you scared". When we go out at night for supper in Mazatlan we often hear, "be careful". The fact of the matter is the place is dangerous, not the worst in Mexico but as it and Culican are the big cities in the Sinaloa province and controlled by the most powerful cartel in Mexico, it regretfully has its problems. I've been wanting to report on the situation but I also wanted to wait until we were home, I didn't want to scare anybody that loves us.
We only had two strange things occur to us this time and they were in the first 24 hours of our trip. Our first night we're jet lagged and tired but you know me...I gotta go to our favorite place , Arre Lu LU's. ( which incidentally is closing up like a lot of Mazatlan businesses after a 14 year run) We decide to sit inside and theres only us and a large Mexican family who are sitting street side and maybe a staff of 3. I'm half way through my first Pacifico when we notice the police with lights flashing drive down the street. They're not right in front of us but not far away as I can see the lights reflecting in the store windows across the street. MP and I are in the middle of a conversation when we both suddenly realize the restaurant is empty...the customers and all the staff are hiding in the kitchen. MP gets up and hides behind a concrete pilaster and I say 'what the hell' and walk out to see whats going on . Before long we see the staff peak out the kitchen door and things return to normal. Everyone acted as if it were a daily experience and I guess it is....the level of anxiety and fear is tangible, that night its like this...if the good guys are around so must be the bad guys. Then the next morning our friends car was broken into at the grocery store. So, we got our part of it out of the way early....Oh I guess there was a little bit more strangeness, but that was the biggy.
I guess I know enough about it that I could tell you about the cartels and the politics that made it come to what it is but I'd rather just tell you about how it effects us, Alaskans that love Mexico and the people.
I took that pic while sitting under the palapa at Rudy's on Stone Island one day. Security is everywhere and if you're a gringo they're keeping track of you, in a good way. We in the USA aren't used to seeing it so graphically but I've gotten real used to it. We just use some judgment, like when you''re walking and armed soldiers or police are on the street, just like the event at Arre Lu Lu's we go to the other side of the street or take another route. Its not so much that I think we could get caught up in a firefight its just that I have the feeling those ak 47's are loaded and I don't want to get caught up in an accident if a car back fires or whatever.
The Mexican Government is really trying. The view that visitors are in danger is ruining the tourist industry. In Mazatlan because its the worst of all the Pacific destinations tourism is down by 80% and all the cruise ships just sail by on their way to Puerto Vallarta and Cabo San Lucas. So during Carnaval this year the security was impressive. Like I say most of it is for show like the Navy gunship doing laps offhsore.
A few years ago I was encouraged to not attend the Carnaval parade as it was just too dangerous and the thought was that something could happen just to show the power of the bad guys. Well this year that was taken care of. Even though the Malecon parade route is maybe 7 mile long, these guys could deal with whatever comes up. This ain't for show, mini guns armed and each man radio enabled , they waved at the crowd all the time ready to take care of business if needed.
So its easy to wonder, why put yourself through all that when theres so many nice places in the world to be? Well 1st, I've made friends there and you know how I am about loyalty. 2nd, its a magical place for me, its music, its fishing, its ahhhhh,,,,warm, I just love everything about Mazatlan accept this. 3rd....well I was bullied a bit in my life, I went to catholic school. So, in Jeff's world to not go to Mazatlan would be like being bullied , and that ain't never happening again. I've worked to hard, seen to much to be intimidated out of anything I love and want to do, by anybody, anywhere...
The last week we were in Maz MP's got to go to the museum. Its really one of the cool things about Maz in thats its big working city with all the things you'd find in the USA. The museum had its resident gallery with all they own, Mexican art by Rubio and other well known artists. But they also had a traveling gallery that was entitled ' Revolutionaries '. It had no explanation how these guys were related or even if they were, but I found it strange . What did they offer to and what was good or bad about the revolution...what ever it was. Its just art and I guess they don't have to relate meaning, you just take it for what it is and maybe the message is in the eyes, who knows?...Maybe the message is up to me, who knows ?
So for me this collection of faces underscores the confusion people have about Mazatlan. I guess its dangerous for some people in some places but never your everyday visitor like us. Its more of a feeling, its more perception, its in the air. Trust me, if you go you'd have the greatest time in this special part of the world, no worries. And for my part, we're continueing to do what we do best....Thanks Mazatlan for another wonderful stay, see you again soon...
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